Nagarkot is only 25 km from Kathmandu but feels like another world. It’s a bumpy ride, but it’s all worth it once you get there. Crisp air, lush green hills, birds chirping – it almost feels like a cliché.
Upon arriving, we headed up to the Jalpadevi Temple for stunning views over the valley. Even now, during monsoon season, the panorama is breathtaking. Just imagine what it must be like when there are no clouds, and you can see as far as Mt. Everest.
From the temple, it’s only a 10-minute stroll to the Community Homestay. We went for the shortcut, wandering through corn fields before arriving at the village of Bastola Gaun. At the homestay, our wonderful host family was already awaiting us. They welcomed us into their home by performing a traditional welcome ceremony – everyone was given a gorgeous little flower bouquet and a tika on their forehead.
After a lunch of Dal Bhat – Dal Bhat 24-hour power – we set off on a hike to explore a waterfall. The hike was fun: tranquil forests and lush greenery, and just enough sponges to make it an adventure. After about an hour, we reached the waterfall, and it was absolutely stunning. It’s a hidden gem, and we had this paradise all to ourselves. Some people from our group have been to Nagarkot multiple times, but even for them, it was their first time at this gorgeous spot. The water is chilly, but that’s just what you need after a little hike – the ideal place for a break.
The hike back led us through small villages, and there were many super cute baby goats along the way. This is as authentic as it gets.
We got back just in time before it started bucketing down—it’s still the monsoon, after all. Our host greeted us with a variety of Nepali snacks—popcorn, soybeans, and gundruk. The only thing you really need to know about gundruk is that it is hands down the best snack in Nepal. Basically, gundruk are dried fermented vegetable leaves, generally mustard leaves, radish leaves, and cauliflower leaves. It might sound weird, but I promise it’s absolutely delicious.
Just a tiny bit tired from our hike, we enjoyed drinking masala tea and listening to the rain falling on the tin roof. Yes, tin roofs are not pretty, and they are not traditional, but they are authentic. The village was badly damaged in the earthquake, and tin roofs were a lifesaver right after the earthquake. Still, even now, three years after the earthquake, the local families are rebuilding their old homes without tin roofs.
Dinner was again Dal Bhat, Nepal's national dish, consisting of rice, lentil soup, and a variety of veggies. I’ve had more Dal Bhats than I can count, and they’re usually not really exciting, but Laxmi knows how to make a seriously good Dal Bhat!
The following day, we enjoy the views and a quick cup of tea before it’s time for our morning yoga session. The yoga lesson really wakes me up, and I feel like we’re actually earning our breakfast. Talking about breakfast: is there a better way to start your day than with some fresh fruits? Locally grown organic fruits, yoghurt, roti, eggs and typically Nepali chickpea takari – breakfast made me incredibly happy.
After breakfast, it was time to say goodbye to our host family. They saw us off with a tika blessing and gave us some flowers from their garden. Then, off we went on another hike!
The hike to Sanga starts off with a short descent to an artificial waterfall, and then comes a steep uphill section through the forest. I have got to get up to get down! Once you’re up, it’s all worth it, though – the views are absolutely stunning. Walking through villages, passing monasteries and wandering through rice fields, we finally reached our destination, the village of Sanga, after 4 hours. Arriving at Sanga sadly marked the end of this fantastic overnight getaway.
I will return to this charming little village to unwind and explore more hidden gems.
